We have come full circle. Last night was spent at the Old Mill Hotel. It was a pleasure to sleep in a bed after the night before.
Two nights ago in Rancho San Fransisco, my world turned upside down. Litterly. An enormose storm blew through. About midnight, my tent and I were rolled over by the howling wind. Moments latter the tent collapsed. I held the tent up over my head, waiting for a lull in the rain. The first chance that came, I grabbed my belongings and flad to the
jeep.
It was completely covered with a tarp to keep everything dry. After working my way in I returned to the tent to check for stragglers. Finding none, I grabbed two rocks and placed them inside to keep the tent from blowing away.
I returned to the jeep to settle in for an awkward but dry nights sleep. Suprisingly, finding a comfortable position was not very difficult and sleep came quickly. But it didn't last.
The winds came. They came from all directions rocking the jeep this way and that. Then they were gone. Sometimes to return moments later, other times an hour. You could hear it in the distance, howling and screaching through the surrounding canyons. The first sounds would start sometimes 25 seconds before they were felt. It made for a night of sleeping between the winds.
Back to now, it's my turn in the shower. And there will be no stopping that.
Tuesday, December 29, 1992
Sunday, December 27, 1992
27-December-1992 7:30 PM
We're camping in an open field just next to a tiny village. Actually it's a ranch. I must say the peoples here are extreemly friendly. Lecho, a boy of maybe 16 years came by earlier today to say hello. He is from the town of Acuncion and is up here on vacation with family. Nice, friendly guy. Likes to play baseball. His team back home came in second in a field of 9. He's due to travel back home in about 3 days. I was annoyed by my lack of understanding of the Spanish language. I was able to follow parts of the conversation but was unable to participate. Any questions or comments required Bibi as a translator. That must be fixed.
Then just now, a couple stopped by to visit and chat for a while. The guy could trace his ancestors here in this ranch to the 1700's. That's amazing. These are a simple people, very pleasant. I found myself enjoying their company. Just as I had Lecho's.
I brought 25 pounds of rice and another 25 pounds of beans on the trip. They were originally going to be given to a mission in El Rosario. But after meeting these people, it will be left here. Talking with the others, we decieded to leave whatever extra foods we have with us. We'll keep enough to get home, but the rest stays with these peoples.
The journey up here was most enjoyable. Leaving the hotel in San Ignastio, we took the main highway north for about 40 kilometers. A right turn off the highway onto a one lane dirt road leads into the Siera San Fransisco.
Along the trail, we climbed about 1,000 meters. The road traversed thru some of the most spectacular canyons I've ever seen. The initial set of switchbacks in the canyon walls lead us to a position where we can look back down on the desert floor we just left. It is an imense open space littered with small mountains dotting the space. The sky is cloudy, but off in the distance can be seen speckles of sunlight trying to get through to the desert floor. A truly spectacular sight. Just after that, my tire went flat.
While waiting for the tire to inflate, we wandered through the surrounding landscape. It contained a wonderous varity of cactii: from huge barrel cactus to small chollos. It was actually a nice place to have to wait. Calm and peaceful. Even with the raindrops.
Traveling further brought us through amazing canyons. These, unlike ones found in southern Utah/Northern Arizona, were covered with foillege. It seemed to be formed in tier structures along the canyon walls. Piering across the open spaces was like looking at a groomed minature garden. Only this was larger than life. Walls which were hundereds of meters high and canyons equally wide across. Impressive.
The major reason for traveling here is to see the pictographs. Primative cave wall art dating back 2500 to 4000 years. The caves are considered to be a national treasure and
any persons wishing to see must hire a guide. The guides can be found here, in Rancho San Fransisco.
On out arrival, Bibi spoke with some locals to gain more information. We discovered that most of the sites would require a three day trip. That is time which we do nothave.We'retobebackinthestatesthedayaftertomorrow. However,aguidecould show us some simple pictographs which were just down the road. Only 3,000 pesos each. Cool! Let's go.
Our guide is an elderly gentleman of 76 years. Nice friendly man. A little hard of hearing and a touch aromatic. He rode with me to the trail head.
We parked on the road side and walked up a short hill to a locked fence. They mean to keep people out without a guide. And as it turns out everyone in the village is a guide.
The paintings were a link between time. It is supposed that shamen drew the art during religious rituals. There were pictures of men, animals like cows, deer and birds. There were also combinations, body of a man with the head of a bird.
All were black or red with the exception of one man which was both. That might symbolize the transformation of man to animal or that man has that ability within him. That is one of the beliefs shamanism held, that to commune better with god, a shaman can transform himself into an animal. They thought that animals were closer to god.
Sitting amoung the paintings seemed to be like reading a letter from the past. Only we don't know the language and can therefore only guess what was meant.
Back at the village, we drop off Carlos and strike up a camp site. The ground is fairly hard and filled with rocks. I set up my tent without pegs and use some rocks to hold out the sides.
We eat a simple meal of bean and cheese borritos. I do the dishes, for Mario cooked again. He enjoys doing it and does it well. I do dishes or help whenever possible, but sometimes I think that it is not enough.
It started drizzeling again just after dinner. I hope it doesn;t pour. The jeep is covered with my other tarp. It should stay dry.
There is a wind howling through the canyons which makes me wish that I'd been able to stake out the tent Everytime it blows past, I wonder if the tent will roll or collapse. This should be an interesting night.
Then just now, a couple stopped by to visit and chat for a while. The guy could trace his ancestors here in this ranch to the 1700's. That's amazing. These are a simple people, very pleasant. I found myself enjoying their company. Just as I had Lecho's.
I brought 25 pounds of rice and another 25 pounds of beans on the trip. They were originally going to be given to a mission in El Rosario. But after meeting these people, it will be left here. Talking with the others, we decieded to leave whatever extra foods we have with us. We'll keep enough to get home, but the rest stays with these peoples.
The journey up here was most enjoyable. Leaving the hotel in San Ignastio, we took the main highway north for about 40 kilometers. A right turn off the highway onto a one lane dirt road leads into the Siera San Fransisco.
Along the trail, we climbed about 1,000 meters. The road traversed thru some of the most spectacular canyons I've ever seen. The initial set of switchbacks in the canyon walls lead us to a position where we can look back down on the desert floor we just left. It is an imense open space littered with small mountains dotting the space. The sky is cloudy, but off in the distance can be seen speckles of sunlight trying to get through to the desert floor. A truly spectacular sight. Just after that, my tire went flat.
While waiting for the tire to inflate, we wandered through the surrounding landscape. It contained a wonderous varity of cactii: from huge barrel cactus to small chollos. It was actually a nice place to have to wait. Calm and peaceful. Even with the raindrops.
Traveling further brought us through amazing canyons. These, unlike ones found in southern Utah/Northern Arizona, were covered with foillege. It seemed to be formed in tier structures along the canyon walls. Piering across the open spaces was like looking at a groomed minature garden. Only this was larger than life. Walls which were hundereds of meters high and canyons equally wide across. Impressive.
The major reason for traveling here is to see the pictographs. Primative cave wall art dating back 2500 to 4000 years. The caves are considered to be a national treasure and
any persons wishing to see must hire a guide. The guides can be found here, in Rancho San Fransisco.
On out arrival, Bibi spoke with some locals to gain more information. We discovered that most of the sites would require a three day trip. That is time which we do nothave.We'retobebackinthestatesthedayaftertomorrow. However,aguidecould show us some simple pictographs which were just down the road. Only 3,000 pesos each. Cool! Let's go.
Our guide is an elderly gentleman of 76 years. Nice friendly man. A little hard of hearing and a touch aromatic. He rode with me to the trail head.
We parked on the road side and walked up a short hill to a locked fence. They mean to keep people out without a guide. And as it turns out everyone in the village is a guide.
The paintings were a link between time. It is supposed that shamen drew the art during religious rituals. There were pictures of men, animals like cows, deer and birds. There were also combinations, body of a man with the head of a bird.
All were black or red with the exception of one man which was both. That might symbolize the transformation of man to animal or that man has that ability within him. That is one of the beliefs shamanism held, that to commune better with god, a shaman can transform himself into an animal. They thought that animals were closer to god.
Sitting amoung the paintings seemed to be like reading a letter from the past. Only we don't know the language and can therefore only guess what was meant.
Back at the village, we drop off Carlos and strike up a camp site. The ground is fairly hard and filled with rocks. I set up my tent without pegs and use some rocks to hold out the sides.
We eat a simple meal of bean and cheese borritos. I do the dishes, for Mario cooked again. He enjoys doing it and does it well. I do dishes or help whenever possible, but sometimes I think that it is not enough.
It started drizzeling again just after dinner. I hope it doesn;t pour. The jeep is covered with my other tarp. It should stay dry.
There is a wind howling through the canyons which makes me wish that I'd been able to stake out the tent Everytime it blows past, I wonder if the tent will roll or collapse. This should be an interesting night.
27-December-1992 1:00 PM
On the trail heading to Rancho San Fransisco it started drizzling. Steep switch backs up a canyon wall to the top. My left rear tire goes flat. I'm waiting to see if Mario's air compressor can inflate it properly. There's a plug in it which should hold. We shell see.
27-December-1992 11:15 AM
Back to yesterday. We take a dirt highway down the coast line around the Vizcaino desert peninsula. Initially it was just like the dirt roads we've been driving on all week.
We would travel through small fishing towns along the coast. Some were quaint, others were desolate. One was littered with trash for many miles before it. That was sad, for the landscape surrounding it was attractive. Now it's an eye sore.
Interlude: Mario and Bibi just came out to leave. We're on the road again.
We would travel through small fishing towns along the coast. Some were quaint, others were desolate. One was littered with trash for many miles before it. That was sad, for the landscape surrounding it was attractive. Now it's an eye sore.
Interlude: Mario and Bibi just came out to leave. We're on the road again.
27-December-1992 Early AM
The day yesterday was filled with mis-adventure. But all of it was still exciting and fun.
We started the day with quesedillas for breakfast and then struck camp. We worked for what seemed like hours cleaning and re-organizing our debris. Yet we still managed to be on the road by a little after 10:00.
We rode a dirt highway along the coast. At least Mario insists that it would be concidered a highway in many parts of the world. I cannot say, for I am not as well traveled as he is.
Mario and Bibi just emerged from their room looking for breakfast. I'm going to join them.
We started the day with quesedillas for breakfast and then struck camp. We worked for what seemed like hours cleaning and re-organizing our debris. Yet we still managed to be on the road by a little after 10:00.
We rode a dirt highway along the coast. At least Mario insists that it would be concidered a highway in many parts of the world. I cannot say, for I am not as well traveled as he is.
Mario and Bibi just emerged from their room looking for breakfast. I'm going to join them.
Saturday, December 26, 1992
26-December-1992 Sometime after sundown
It's been a long day. I'll give details later. The rack on the back of my jeep exploded. A spring in Mario's right rear break drum broke. We cheated and spent a night in a La Pinta Hotel. Had a cheap dinner. Found some Tacate beer for $4.00 per six pack, so we drank it. Time for another shower and sleep. Later.
Friday, December 25, 1992
25-December-1992 6:00 PM
Well, another shitty day in paradise.
We spent most of the day fishing again. Mario caught a tiger shark right off the bat. I had to hold it tight while Mario removed the hook. We released it to continue doing what it does best: Eat!
We were in a groove, Mario and I. We caught many fish during our casting sessions. Most we returned to the sea, but we kept two. Both were sea bass and were plump enough to make filets.
We did our fishing about 2 miles down the beach from the camp. The three of us hiked there after breakfast Bibi stayed long enough to check out the tide pools and determine that there was no protection from the sun. She went back to camp.
About an hour before we stopped fishing, we discovered that muscles were like candy to these fish. The muscles grew among a rock out-cropping where we were fishing. Within seconds of casting a line, bites could be felt. Moments later, another fish is landed, freed and returned to the waters.
I was about to call it a day. My line got snagged among the rocks and all the tackle was lost. I'd have to rig a new line. Rather just sit and watch the waves crash. As I was making my way back to shore, Mario spots Bibi coming back down the beach. She tells him that one of his gas cans is leaking. He had them secured to the roof of the pickup.
We pack up all the gear, grab the fish, a few extra muscles (in case we fish later) and head back to camp. Most of the hike back was done on the sand which shows during low tide. It's fairly solid and it's easy to trek upon. The way out there was done over shells, real difficult to walk on.
Back at camp, we see that Bibi has managed to get the offending can standing upright. Only a little has leaked out. I think Mario added the remainder to the gas tank and will leave the can empty for the rest of the trip.
Dinner tonight was fresh fish tacos. Mario grilled the filets, made some rice and heated tortillas on the stove flame. The fresh fish is tasty and makes one enjoyable feast. We all eat too much.
With the dishes done, Mario mixes a quick batch of margaritas. We join Bibi up on the shells to watch the sunset. I am not articulate enough to describe it. I'm not certain that anyone actually is. Let it suffice that we did not leave till the last rays were cresting the horizon. Bibi said it best: "This place calms the spirit and soothes the soul."
Back at camp we make a simple fire. Mario cleans his fishing gear and stores it in it's proper place. It's early, maybe half hour past sunset. We're all tired and I'm the first to turn in.
Back at my tent, there is fine sand all over the floor. My small flashlight hanging from the ceiling has just burned out it's bulb. I don't really care. I'm tired, I have a slight sunburn on my face and I need some sleep. Good night.
We spent most of the day fishing again. Mario caught a tiger shark right off the bat. I had to hold it tight while Mario removed the hook. We released it to continue doing what it does best: Eat!
We were in a groove, Mario and I. We caught many fish during our casting sessions. Most we returned to the sea, but we kept two. Both were sea bass and were plump enough to make filets.
We did our fishing about 2 miles down the beach from the camp. The three of us hiked there after breakfast Bibi stayed long enough to check out the tide pools and determine that there was no protection from the sun. She went back to camp.
About an hour before we stopped fishing, we discovered that muscles were like candy to these fish. The muscles grew among a rock out-cropping where we were fishing. Within seconds of casting a line, bites could be felt. Moments later, another fish is landed, freed and returned to the waters.
I was about to call it a day. My line got snagged among the rocks and all the tackle was lost. I'd have to rig a new line. Rather just sit and watch the waves crash. As I was making my way back to shore, Mario spots Bibi coming back down the beach. She tells him that one of his gas cans is leaking. He had them secured to the roof of the pickup.
We pack up all the gear, grab the fish, a few extra muscles (in case we fish later) and head back to camp. Most of the hike back was done on the sand which shows during low tide. It's fairly solid and it's easy to trek upon. The way out there was done over shells, real difficult to walk on.
Back at camp, we see that Bibi has managed to get the offending can standing upright. Only a little has leaked out. I think Mario added the remainder to the gas tank and will leave the can empty for the rest of the trip.
Dinner tonight was fresh fish tacos. Mario grilled the filets, made some rice and heated tortillas on the stove flame. The fresh fish is tasty and makes one enjoyable feast. We all eat too much.
With the dishes done, Mario mixes a quick batch of margaritas. We join Bibi up on the shells to watch the sunset. I am not articulate enough to describe it. I'm not certain that anyone actually is. Let it suffice that we did not leave till the last rays were cresting the horizon. Bibi said it best: "This place calms the spirit and soothes the soul."
Back at camp we make a simple fire. Mario cleans his fishing gear and stores it in it's proper place. It's early, maybe half hour past sunset. We're all tired and I'm the first to turn in.
Back at my tent, there is fine sand all over the floor. My small flashlight hanging from the ceiling has just burned out it's bulb. I don't really care. I'm tired, I have a slight sunburn on my face and I need some sleep. Good night.
25-December-1992 8:30AM
It's Christmas day and we all seem to be in a tranquil mood. Mario was sitting in bed. He had to get up during the night to fix a portion of our tarp city which had fallen. Bibi is up. I saw her first this morning sitting on her rock throne. She built it with some flat rocks laying among the shells. She's there now, looking at the shells around her. Playing with ones she finds interesting or pretty. I'd still be in bed but nature called. So with trowel and paper in hand, I headed off to find a calm place to do my business.
This beach front still remains an enigma to me: Why is it here? What formed it like it is? Why is it covered with shells?
The tide is in right now. It's waves breaking among the shells. As the waters recede, (he shells look like gems sparkling in the morning sun. There isn't really that much sun today. There are many high clouds. But every once in a while, a beam of light shines through. And that makes the sight more wondrous to behold.
The pelicans are playing in the morning air. Riding the wind streams down the shore. They glide mere inches above the waves. Riding the thrill till the moment of breaking. Then they climb up above the spray and head a little out to sea looking for the next wave to follow. The group that just passed had 6 gliders. Some pelicans fly solo and others in groups up to 15.
I see a brown object sticking out of the water just outside the wave break front. Then a tail flicks into view and with a splash, both are gone. My first reaction is sea otter. Mario says seal. Where ever it may be, I don't think it cares. There are fish in the waters and it's time to play.
This beach front still remains an enigma to me: Why is it here? What formed it like it is? Why is it covered with shells?
The tide is in right now. It's waves breaking among the shells. As the waters recede, (he shells look like gems sparkling in the morning sun. There isn't really that much sun today. There are many high clouds. But every once in a while, a beam of light shines through. And that makes the sight more wondrous to behold.
The pelicans are playing in the morning air. Riding the wind streams down the shore. They glide mere inches above the waves. Riding the thrill till the moment of breaking. Then they climb up above the spray and head a little out to sea looking for the next wave to follow. The group that just passed had 6 gliders. Some pelicans fly solo and others in groups up to 15.
I see a brown object sticking out of the water just outside the wave break front. Then a tail flicks into view and with a splash, both are gone. My first reaction is sea otter. Mario says seal. Where ever it may be, I don't think it cares. There are fish in the waters and it's time to play.
Thursday, December 24, 1992
24-December-1992 7:15PM
Today has been completely invigorating. The day started with another startling sunrise. The most unique things was that it happened on the opposite end of the beach as last night's sunset. Look to the left for the sunrise and to the right for the sunset. At first I took this as standard magic. But then I remembered that there is no real magic, only things we currently don't understand. Therefore, there must be another reason. Ah yes, this is a south facing beach. The left side of the arch faces east and the right west. Good way to start the day.
Mario prepared a breakfast of buttermilk pancakes. That and a couple of glasses of tang and a cup of milk filled me for the day ahead. We finished cleaning and prepared for a day of fishing.
I just bought a new reel for my fishing rod. It's a little on the small side, but it will have to do. It: needs fishing line and fisherman Mario suggests 12 pound line. Add some tackle and we're all set to catch fish.
Down onto the beach front we go. Casting out over the breakers and we be fishing. I catch one quickly, but it's rather small so back it goes. The fishing continues.
While Mario and I try to snag some ready-made fish tacos, Bibi brings a chair from the camp to watch. She sits in the sun, reading a book, gazes out over the ocean or just daydreams. She looks at peace with the planet.
The morning continues on in much the same fashion. Mario catches one. let's it go. Catches another through the eye and keeps it for bait. I get nibbles and a bite or two, but cannot land another. At one point, one is hooked. As I reel it in, the fish suddenly jumps out of the water. Not much, but a little. While in the air, it seems to thumb it's fin at me before diving back into the water. A moment later and it's free. It wasn't very large, but I think it was a keeper.
Before long. it's afternoon and my belly wants to be fed. Lunch Time. Mario and Bibi are already back at camp. I find them hanging up the laundry we did on the road yesterday.
I grab some trail mix, dried fruit, macadamia nuts and water for lunch. We sit on Mario's tail gate telling stories about the one that got away. We talk about nothing important, just glad to be among friends. And then it's back to the fish.
The afternoon moves quickly. We try live bait made from yesterday's catch. We try artificial lures. Mario catches another nice fish. As for myself, the ones I was able to land were all a little small, so back they went. I'd have to say it was a calming day spent fishing.
We decide to call it a day when storm clouds seem to be building on the horizon. Not a good sign. It's back to camp and prep-work for a storm. But first we each take a shower. A sun shower has been laying on the hood of the jeep all day. Just basking in the sun, waiting to put a smile on our faces. I am amazed again and again what a simple treat that some soap and hot water makes.
Once we're all thoroughly scrubbed, it's back to the storm front. We adjust both vehicles so they're about 12 feet apart. Now a tarp can be hung between the two for shelter. Another over my jeep will keep it dry and a third just for giggles. Now we're ready.
Once that is done, we can think about dinner. Something simple. Spaghetti and sauce. Simple and quick to make ready.
We eat dinner and clean the mess. A fire is light and we gaze between it and our Christmas bush. While dinner was cooking, I hung some battery operated lights that Mario brought along. Bibi makes several ornaments from aluminum foil. Some required imagination, especially the angle with no wings, no head and no halo. But the decorations are perfect. I put Mario and Bibi's gifts under the bush. A simple but complete sight.
Mario mixes a batch of margaritas to celebrate the season. Some funky Christmas tunes are on the CD player. We look up to find stars waiting. The storm seems to have been nothing but our imaginations. But we look out over the ocean to see dark patches of clouds. There may be a storm yet.
Mario and Bibi dance to a slow tune playing. It's amazing, but the smoke from the fire seems to be chasing them around. Mario's been in some smoky joints before, but this is ridiculous.
The night moves on, we're all tired. It's been a busy day. Of all the fish we hooked and lost; landed and threw back, only 2 made it to the cooler. Bibi bumed her legs in the sun, aloe gel soothes the pain. We all have sniffles, coughs or sore throats; so it's Niquil shooters all around. It's peaceful listening to the waves break along the shore. The lights to the Christmas bush are out now. Mario and Bibi are making sleep time maneuvers.
A soothing end to an entertaining day. I'm crashing now so best to make it into my bag before too long. To dream the dreams of happiness. Merry Christmas, my friends…
Mario prepared a breakfast of buttermilk pancakes. That and a couple of glasses of tang and a cup of milk filled me for the day ahead. We finished cleaning and prepared for a day of fishing.
I just bought a new reel for my fishing rod. It's a little on the small side, but it will have to do. It: needs fishing line and fisherman Mario suggests 12 pound line. Add some tackle and we're all set to catch fish.
Down onto the beach front we go. Casting out over the breakers and we be fishing. I catch one quickly, but it's rather small so back it goes. The fishing continues.
While Mario and I try to snag some ready-made fish tacos, Bibi brings a chair from the camp to watch. She sits in the sun, reading a book, gazes out over the ocean or just daydreams. She looks at peace with the planet.
The morning continues on in much the same fashion. Mario catches one. let's it go. Catches another through the eye and keeps it for bait. I get nibbles and a bite or two, but cannot land another. At one point, one is hooked. As I reel it in, the fish suddenly jumps out of the water. Not much, but a little. While in the air, it seems to thumb it's fin at me before diving back into the water. A moment later and it's free. It wasn't very large, but I think it was a keeper.
Before long. it's afternoon and my belly wants to be fed. Lunch Time. Mario and Bibi are already back at camp. I find them hanging up the laundry we did on the road yesterday.
I grab some trail mix, dried fruit, macadamia nuts and water for lunch. We sit on Mario's tail gate telling stories about the one that got away. We talk about nothing important, just glad to be among friends. And then it's back to the fish.
The afternoon moves quickly. We try live bait made from yesterday's catch. We try artificial lures. Mario catches another nice fish. As for myself, the ones I was able to land were all a little small, so back they went. I'd have to say it was a calming day spent fishing.
We decide to call it a day when storm clouds seem to be building on the horizon. Not a good sign. It's back to camp and prep-work for a storm. But first we each take a shower. A sun shower has been laying on the hood of the jeep all day. Just basking in the sun, waiting to put a smile on our faces. I am amazed again and again what a simple treat that some soap and hot water makes.
Once we're all thoroughly scrubbed, it's back to the storm front. We adjust both vehicles so they're about 12 feet apart. Now a tarp can be hung between the two for shelter. Another over my jeep will keep it dry and a third just for giggles. Now we're ready.
Once that is done, we can think about dinner. Something simple. Spaghetti and sauce. Simple and quick to make ready.
We eat dinner and clean the mess. A fire is light and we gaze between it and our Christmas bush. While dinner was cooking, I hung some battery operated lights that Mario brought along. Bibi makes several ornaments from aluminum foil. Some required imagination, especially the angle with no wings, no head and no halo. But the decorations are perfect. I put Mario and Bibi's gifts under the bush. A simple but complete sight.
Mario mixes a batch of margaritas to celebrate the season. Some funky Christmas tunes are on the CD player. We look up to find stars waiting. The storm seems to have been nothing but our imaginations. But we look out over the ocean to see dark patches of clouds. There may be a storm yet.
Mario and Bibi dance to a slow tune playing. It's amazing, but the smoke from the fire seems to be chasing them around. Mario's been in some smoky joints before, but this is ridiculous.
The night moves on, we're all tired. It's been a busy day. Of all the fish we hooked and lost; landed and threw back, only 2 made it to the cooler. Bibi bumed her legs in the sun, aloe gel soothes the pain. We all have sniffles, coughs or sore throats; so it's Niquil shooters all around. It's peaceful listening to the waves break along the shore. The lights to the Christmas bush are out now. Mario and Bibi are making sleep time maneuvers.
A soothing end to an entertaining day. I'm crashing now so best to make it into my bag before too long. To dream the dreams of happiness. Merry Christmas, my friends…
Wednesday, December 23, 1992
23-December-1992 About 8PM
No one will ever believe Mario got stuck in sea shells. True to form, he is very unique. This will be written in the history books. I'm just glad Bibi was able to get pictures of it. Talking about it afterward has brought great amounts of laughter from everyone.
After we got most of the camp set, there was still about an hour or so of day light left. Mario wants to fish. He's been dreaming about it since we started planning this trip. To be honest, so have I. The area at which we are camping is supposed to have some of the best surf fishing around. Tonight, I think I'll just pass.
Bibi yells out that Mario has caught one. Out there only a few minutes and he's caught a pacific sea bass. Nice start for fresh fish tacos. We'll need a few more, but it's a nice start. The rest of the time, Bibi spends sitting on the shells watching Mario cast out
into the surf. He doesn't catch anything else tonight, but he's in the groove. At that moment in time, he was one with what he was doing.
The sunset was truly spectacular. Then again, each one is just that. We had tortellini for dinner. Mario and Bibi have turned in for the night. As for myself, I'm going to sit a while and listen to the cascading surf.
After we got most of the camp set, there was still about an hour or so of day light left. Mario wants to fish. He's been dreaming about it since we started planning this trip. To be honest, so have I. The area at which we are camping is supposed to have some of the best surf fishing around. Tonight, I think I'll just pass.
Bibi yells out that Mario has caught one. Out there only a few minutes and he's caught a pacific sea bass. Nice start for fresh fish tacos. We'll need a few more, but it's a nice start. The rest of the time, Bibi spends sitting on the shells watching Mario cast out
into the surf. He doesn't catch anything else tonight, but he's in the groove. At that moment in time, he was one with what he was doing.
The sunset was truly spectacular. Then again, each one is just that. We had tortellini for dinner. Mario and Bibi have turned in for the night. As for myself, I'm going to sit a while and listen to the cascading surf.
23-December-1992 5:45 PM
This has been a day like the tides. The emotions rolled from low to high. It started early in the day. We had eaten another breakfast of oatmeal and finished packing up camp. All was ready to leave. Except my jeep. Seems like it had other plans in mind, like staying. The engine cranked and turned, but would not start. Turn and turn and turn. but no ignition. Turn a little more and then stop: dead battery. A jump from Mario's pickup solves that problem. We checked everything: the fuel going to the filter; the fuel coming out of the filter; the fuel coming out of the carburetor jets; spark from the distributor; air filter…
Then the thought occurred that the gas might not be that great. A little camping white gas down the throat of the carburetor and the jeep starts. It stalls right away, but it started. Bad gas. We keep trying the white gas till it keeps running. No problem. Once it was wanned up, it ran fine.
I realize that real negative emotions were pouring from me at the time the jeep wouldn't start. I snapped at Mario and cursed at nothing. That was a bad thing. I have to keep better control. I offer Mario my apologies, I didn't mean to offend him.
Off we go back to Gueren-o Negro. We top off the cars and I buy some octane booster. We hope it will help starting in the morning. Tomorrow will tell.
We stop at a phone. Bibi wants to call her daughter, Leah, to make sure that everything is OK at home. Mario stops in the liquor store for some tequila. I go to the pharmacy looking for another notebook. This one is filling up fast. Bibi cannot get through to an international operator. That will have to wait. Perhaps the next large town will have a phone.
One more stop for some purified water. So far we've only used about 6 gallons of the fresh water we brought along. And that includes the showers.
In the next little town, we top off the tanks again. Now we're heading into the desert and there won't be another station for a couple of hundred miles.
We turn off the trans-penninsula highway onto a small paved road. A few miles later and it turns into a dirt road. A dirt road with lots of washboard. Very, very bumpy washboard. But if we keep the speed above 55, it smoothes out. Just have to watch out for those car eating potholes…
A couple of stops along the way yield 2 or 3 nights of firewood. Some of the rather large pieces are strapped to the top of the jeep. It looks like antlers have grown. Interesting sight.
We turn off the main dirt road heading into a village. Civilization is the last thing we want just now. Even a simple fishing village. After driving through the desert on a bumpy dirt road, we reach the pacific ocean.
Stopping at some sand dunes let's us scout the trail ahead on foot. The top of the dunes show us a blue ocean. The sand under foot is oh so fine and the air around is a warm temperature. The sky above is clear and blue. Breath-taking.
We decide that the dunes would be too tough to climb with the vehicles. Besides, it is too pristine a scene to disturb with tire tracks. Doubling back a bit and taking another trail shows an easy way down to the beach.
Stopping again to scout about reveals a beach not of sand, but of shells' Dunes, hills and flat stretches of land all covered with shells. Digging a hole about a foot deep shows nothing but shells. Little ones, big ones; whole, broken, smooth and rough. Nothing but shells. Amazing. Never before have I seen such a sight. Along the water in both directions, nothing but shells.
We drive past one potential spot for camp. It's close to the beach and protected from the wind by some small dunes. It even has the remains of a file ring.
Mario is slowly traveling the trail and I follow cautiously behind. He rounds a bend over small hill and gets stuck. The shells we were driving on give way and the pickup sinks. Some quick digging and he is free.
The trail ahead is nothing but shells. Lots of places to get stuck. We're going to head back to the first site we saw and Mario is stuck again. This time digging doesn't help very much. Letting some air out of the tires increases the traction, but not enough to get out. The pickup moves forward a bit more and sinks once again. Time to winch it out. We set up an anchor in the shells hoping that it will grab and hold. Nothing doing. The winch just pulls it free and drags it through the shells. Digging a hole about 1 1/2 feet shows some sand. Bury it there and try again. All we do is dig up more shells. I think that these dunes are nothing but shells.
Since the jeep is on fairly solid ground, we try using it as an anchor point. Move it slightly to bring it in line with the pickup and place wheel chokes to keep it there. Mario's winch line is too short to make it all the way so we use mine to make up the difference. At last, a stable anchor and the pickup is moving. It gets to a point of solid level ground and Mario is able to drive the rest of the way out.
Dinner is now ready, Mario just called. I must break away from the sounds of the waves to feed. I wonder what it will be tonight.
Then the thought occurred that the gas might not be that great. A little camping white gas down the throat of the carburetor and the jeep starts. It stalls right away, but it started. Bad gas. We keep trying the white gas till it keeps running. No problem. Once it was wanned up, it ran fine.
I realize that real negative emotions were pouring from me at the time the jeep wouldn't start. I snapped at Mario and cursed at nothing. That was a bad thing. I have to keep better control. I offer Mario my apologies, I didn't mean to offend him.
Off we go back to Gueren-o Negro. We top off the cars and I buy some octane booster. We hope it will help starting in the morning. Tomorrow will tell.
We stop at a phone. Bibi wants to call her daughter, Leah, to make sure that everything is OK at home. Mario stops in the liquor store for some tequila. I go to the pharmacy looking for another notebook. This one is filling up fast. Bibi cannot get through to an international operator. That will have to wait. Perhaps the next large town will have a phone.
One more stop for some purified water. So far we've only used about 6 gallons of the fresh water we brought along. And that includes the showers.
In the next little town, we top off the tanks again. Now we're heading into the desert and there won't be another station for a couple of hundred miles.
We turn off the trans-penninsula highway onto a small paved road. A few miles later and it turns into a dirt road. A dirt road with lots of washboard. Very, very bumpy washboard. But if we keep the speed above 55, it smoothes out. Just have to watch out for those car eating potholes…
A couple of stops along the way yield 2 or 3 nights of firewood. Some of the rather large pieces are strapped to the top of the jeep. It looks like antlers have grown. Interesting sight.
We turn off the main dirt road heading into a village. Civilization is the last thing we want just now. Even a simple fishing village. After driving through the desert on a bumpy dirt road, we reach the pacific ocean.
Stopping at some sand dunes let's us scout the trail ahead on foot. The top of the dunes show us a blue ocean. The sand under foot is oh so fine and the air around is a warm temperature. The sky above is clear and blue. Breath-taking.
We decide that the dunes would be too tough to climb with the vehicles. Besides, it is too pristine a scene to disturb with tire tracks. Doubling back a bit and taking another trail shows an easy way down to the beach.
Stopping again to scout about reveals a beach not of sand, but of shells' Dunes, hills and flat stretches of land all covered with shells. Digging a hole about a foot deep shows nothing but shells. Little ones, big ones; whole, broken, smooth and rough. Nothing but shells. Amazing. Never before have I seen such a sight. Along the water in both directions, nothing but shells.
We drive past one potential spot for camp. It's close to the beach and protected from the wind by some small dunes. It even has the remains of a file ring.
Mario is slowly traveling the trail and I follow cautiously behind. He rounds a bend over small hill and gets stuck. The shells we were driving on give way and the pickup sinks. Some quick digging and he is free.
The trail ahead is nothing but shells. Lots of places to get stuck. We're going to head back to the first site we saw and Mario is stuck again. This time digging doesn't help very much. Letting some air out of the tires increases the traction, but not enough to get out. The pickup moves forward a bit more and sinks once again. Time to winch it out. We set up an anchor in the shells hoping that it will grab and hold. Nothing doing. The winch just pulls it free and drags it through the shells. Digging a hole about 1 1/2 feet shows some sand. Bury it there and try again. All we do is dig up more shells. I think that these dunes are nothing but shells.
Since the jeep is on fairly solid ground, we try using it as an anchor point. Move it slightly to bring it in line with the pickup and place wheel chokes to keep it there. Mario's winch line is too short to make it all the way so we use mine to make up the difference. At last, a stable anchor and the pickup is moving. It gets to a point of solid level ground and Mario is able to drive the rest of the way out.
Dinner is now ready, Mario just called. I must break away from the sounds of the waves to feed. I wonder what it will be tonight.
Tuesday, December 22, 1992
22-December-1992 About 6:30 PM
This marks the second day in a row I've been awake for sunrise and then sunset. Both were incredible. I've never done that before.
This is the second night we've epent at Scannon's Lagoon. This is where the gray whale ends it's migration from the Arctic, Thís is where they calve, giving birth to their young. They stay in this place till the spring, nursing and feeding the young. Then it's another trek back north to the Arctíc.
This is early in the season, they just begin to arrive about now. So far we've only seen water spouts and some backs above the water line. Locals run a service where they take you out onto the lagoon where you can actually touch them. We passed on going out this morning and will do so again tomorrow. It would be nice to return here in a month's time to actuall go out but I doubt this wíll happen.
This past night, I slept under the stars. Just to lie back and gaze is a wondrous thing. It makes me feel humble and insígnificant. But it also makes me realize that anything is possible. I will sleep out under the stars again tonight. Who knows, perhaps this time I'll make friends with some of the coyotes.
Mario and Bibi slept in the pickup again this past night. Bibi didn't sleep too well. Mario pretended to be a log. Night before last it was the opposite. Tonight I hope they both sleep well.
Today was very easy going. After a breakfast of hot oatmeal, we took a short hike along the shore. Maybe 3-4 miles each way. We had some lunch at the turn around point. Dried fruit, cheese, rye crisps, salami and fresh oranges fill the belly and make the legs move. Once back at camp, Mario and I walk down the other shore line. I went for a quick dip ín the water while Mario tried to do some fishing. I found the water to be a little bit chilly but clean and invigorating.
This whole area is marsh land surrounding the lagoon. Our camp site is at a point where the land sticks a bit out into the water, the whole lagoon is to the left and behind with a small leg off in front and to our right. At the time Mario was fishing, the tide was moving past.
I walked 'a couple of miles past Mario just to see where the shore went. Along the way, I picked up several seashells for Mrs. B's daughter Jessica; she tells me that she has a collection,
Along the way I met a rather large flying insect. About 2 inches long, black body with wide bright red wíngs. It seems that I came to close to it's habitat. It flew to wíthin about 15 feet and hovered for a second. As I backed away from it's home it kept the distance about the same. If I stopped, it stopped. Once I was outside of whatever imaginq boundary it maintains, it broke off contact and returned home. Interesting encounter.
Mario was no where to be seen on the way back. It seems that the tide got too low for him to fish. The fishing line would bring in weeds every time. I've never seen a dde go out so far, so fast. The tracks I made along the water line on the way out are now at least thirty feet from the water.
Getting back to camp I find Bibi getting ready to treat herself to a shower. First one since Saturday morning. While waiting for my turn, I wandered back out onto the water in search of clams. The only ones I could find were under 2". Too small for dinner. I keep walking to see where the water gets deep. I gave up trying when it got half way up my calves. I counted steps coming back: over 300 to the shore line high tide mark. Gee, this is shallow.
Getting back it's my turn in the shower. What a treat it is to wash your hair after a few days. Soap and water are our friends. Long live the friendship.
We had a simple dinner tonight of been and cheese burritos. These were tasty. With a little bit of hot sauce, they hit the spot.
Mario and Bibi drag me out of my chair by the fire. They say they want to show me something. Yeah right, where have I heard that before. We walk over to the shore line and look out over the water. There is a faint silvery shaft of light reflecting across the water, the light reflecting off a nearby planet! I've never seen that before. From a planet! maybe mars or Venus. Or even mercury. Simply beautiful.
I sit alone by a dying fire. The others went to sleep early, a little past 7. There is no more wood. The fire will bum out in a short time. My sleeping bag and mat must still be set out. After that, maybe I'll try naming some of the constellations. My sister Elizabeth gave me a gift last year to help learn about the constellations. I've tried using it before, with very limited luck. Maybe this time will be better. Or better yet, going to sleep and dreaming of traveling among them.
This is the second night we've epent at Scannon's Lagoon. This is where the gray whale ends it's migration from the Arctic, Thís is where they calve, giving birth to their young. They stay in this place till the spring, nursing and feeding the young. Then it's another trek back north to the Arctíc.
This is early in the season, they just begin to arrive about now. So far we've only seen water spouts and some backs above the water line. Locals run a service where they take you out onto the lagoon where you can actually touch them. We passed on going out this morning and will do so again tomorrow. It would be nice to return here in a month's time to actuall go out but I doubt this wíll happen.
This past night, I slept under the stars. Just to lie back and gaze is a wondrous thing. It makes me feel humble and insígnificant. But it also makes me realize that anything is possible. I will sleep out under the stars again tonight. Who knows, perhaps this time I'll make friends with some of the coyotes.
Mario and Bibi slept in the pickup again this past night. Bibi didn't sleep too well. Mario pretended to be a log. Night before last it was the opposite. Tonight I hope they both sleep well.
Today was very easy going. After a breakfast of hot oatmeal, we took a short hike along the shore. Maybe 3-4 miles each way. We had some lunch at the turn around point. Dried fruit, cheese, rye crisps, salami and fresh oranges fill the belly and make the legs move. Once back at camp, Mario and I walk down the other shore line. I went for a quick dip ín the water while Mario tried to do some fishing. I found the water to be a little bit chilly but clean and invigorating.
This whole area is marsh land surrounding the lagoon. Our camp site is at a point where the land sticks a bit out into the water, the whole lagoon is to the left and behind with a small leg off in front and to our right. At the time Mario was fishing, the tide was moving past.
I walked 'a couple of miles past Mario just to see where the shore went. Along the way, I picked up several seashells for Mrs. B's daughter Jessica; she tells me that she has a collection,
Along the way I met a rather large flying insect. About 2 inches long, black body with wide bright red wíngs. It seems that I came to close to it's habitat. It flew to wíthin about 15 feet and hovered for a second. As I backed away from it's home it kept the distance about the same. If I stopped, it stopped. Once I was outside of whatever imaginq boundary it maintains, it broke off contact and returned home. Interesting encounter.
Mario was no where to be seen on the way back. It seems that the tide got too low for him to fish. The fishing line would bring in weeds every time. I've never seen a dde go out so far, so fast. The tracks I made along the water line on the way out are now at least thirty feet from the water.
Getting back to camp I find Bibi getting ready to treat herself to a shower. First one since Saturday morning. While waiting for my turn, I wandered back out onto the water in search of clams. The only ones I could find were under 2". Too small for dinner. I keep walking to see where the water gets deep. I gave up trying when it got half way up my calves. I counted steps coming back: over 300 to the shore line high tide mark. Gee, this is shallow.
Getting back it's my turn in the shower. What a treat it is to wash your hair after a few days. Soap and water are our friends. Long live the friendship.
We had a simple dinner tonight of been and cheese burritos. These were tasty. With a little bit of hot sauce, they hit the spot.
Mario and Bibi drag me out of my chair by the fire. They say they want to show me something. Yeah right, where have I heard that before. We walk over to the shore line and look out over the water. There is a faint silvery shaft of light reflecting across the water, the light reflecting off a nearby planet! I've never seen that before. From a planet! maybe mars or Venus. Or even mercury. Simply beautiful.
I sit alone by a dying fire. The others went to sleep early, a little past 7. There is no more wood. The fire will bum out in a short time. My sleeping bag and mat must still be set out. After that, maybe I'll try naming some of the constellations. My sister Elizabeth gave me a gift last year to help learn about the constellations. I've tried using it before, with very limited luck. Maybe this time will be better. Or better yet, going to sleep and dreaming of traveling among them.
Monday, December 21, 1992
21-December-1992 About 7 in the Evening
Rolling through the desert today, we saw nature unfolding. A mesa perhaps 800 feet (or should I say 250 meters) was melting into the surrounding plains. During the rainy season, sky water runs down the walls of the cliffs dragging bits along the path, Atfter some time, the walls have eroded in far enough so the mesa floor collapses down the side. After the season is over, the earth bakes beneath a desert sun. Before too many seasons have passed, the mesa will be no more.
At a point during the days joourney, Bibi spoted a stash of dead wood on the road side. Driving past it, we watçhed for more stashes and stopped at the next one found. We sit now before a fire given by the wood. One of the larger pieces is burning now. The bottom end has several stubby arms. Two of these form a cat's head and paw in the fire. His ears are standing straight up, facing the other side of the fire. And an arm is extended before his face as if playing with a ball of string. Or swatting the flames away.
Dinner is done, dishes are cleaned and bellies are full once again. A glass of wine sipped here, maybe some water there. The closest neighbor is several miles away from us. A peaceful, introspective time. We're all quietly thinking.
The day gone past was eventful, to say the least. Mario obtained a cash advance at BanaMex. Our cash flow problems are resolved. Short of extremely foolish waste, we should be able to hit all the places we planned. I feel small, not bringing enough money was very stupid. Well, learn from the mistakes.
The morning started on a sour note. While trying to adjust the driver's mirror to face away from the jeep, it broke off. It wouldn't budge, so I pushed harder and then it was gone. Nothing more to push against. The mirror was laying on the sand. The mounting base had broken in half. It seems that the hinge froze in place. I used epoxy to join the two pieces back together. It should be dry by tomorrow.
We stopped to get gas in a town called Jesus Maria. When my turn at the pump arrived, the attendant happily fi1led the tank. Once done, he smiled and asked for 91,OOO pesos. Without thinking, I handed him the money. I started the jeep and pulled to where Mario and Bibi waited in the shade. They asked how many liters I used. My reply was a shrug, I'm not sure. How much money? 91,OOO. A quick calculation by Mario shows that to be about 19.75 gallons. Since the tank holds 20 gallons and the needle was a little above 'E', I was robbed. I'd guess it waS 18,000 to 20,000 pesos. There was no way to prove it, the money was lost. More foolishness.
Coyotes were howling and laughing in the distance before. Now there is one barking just outside our camp. Mario had to climb on the roof of his pickup to find him with the flood light. Seems he needed to use Bibi's rest room for himself. He's marking around the outside of our camp. Territory boundries? Perhaps it's his way of welcoming us to dinner.
We set up a lean-to to block the wind which hounded us before. Two of the grommets tore loose and needed a quick repair. Duct tape works wonders. I plan to sleep under it tonight. The temperature is perfect when out of the wind. Cool enough to let you see your breath. Good sleeping weather.
The cat has gone the way of the wind. Blown off as ashes and dust. The coyotes have returned to their plains. Maybe they'll be back later, maybe not. Mario is being chased by the smoke as he tries to add fuel to the fire. Bibi is wrapped wíthin a blanket near the fire. And I'm listening to the sounds and sights of another fire in the middle of nowhere.
At a point during the days joourney, Bibi spoted a stash of dead wood on the road side. Driving past it, we watçhed for more stashes and stopped at the next one found. We sit now before a fire given by the wood. One of the larger pieces is burning now. The bottom end has several stubby arms. Two of these form a cat's head and paw in the fire. His ears are standing straight up, facing the other side of the fire. And an arm is extended before his face as if playing with a ball of string. Or swatting the flames away.
Dinner is done, dishes are cleaned and bellies are full once again. A glass of wine sipped here, maybe some water there. The closest neighbor is several miles away from us. A peaceful, introspective time. We're all quietly thinking.
The day gone past was eventful, to say the least. Mario obtained a cash advance at BanaMex. Our cash flow problems are resolved. Short of extremely foolish waste, we should be able to hit all the places we planned. I feel small, not bringing enough money was very stupid. Well, learn from the mistakes.
The morning started on a sour note. While trying to adjust the driver's mirror to face away from the jeep, it broke off. It wouldn't budge, so I pushed harder and then it was gone. Nothing more to push against. The mirror was laying on the sand. The mounting base had broken in half. It seems that the hinge froze in place. I used epoxy to join the two pieces back together. It should be dry by tomorrow.
We stopped to get gas in a town called Jesus Maria. When my turn at the pump arrived, the attendant happily fi1led the tank. Once done, he smiled and asked for 91,OOO pesos. Without thinking, I handed him the money. I started the jeep and pulled to where Mario and Bibi waited in the shade. They asked how many liters I used. My reply was a shrug, I'm not sure. How much money? 91,OOO. A quick calculation by Mario shows that to be about 19.75 gallons. Since the tank holds 20 gallons and the needle was a little above 'E', I was robbed. I'd guess it waS 18,000 to 20,000 pesos. There was no way to prove it, the money was lost. More foolishness.
Coyotes were howling and laughing in the distance before. Now there is one barking just outside our camp. Mario had to climb on the roof of his pickup to find him with the flood light. Seems he needed to use Bibi's rest room for himself. He's marking around the outside of our camp. Territory boundries? Perhaps it's his way of welcoming us to dinner.
We set up a lean-to to block the wind which hounded us before. Two of the grommets tore loose and needed a quick repair. Duct tape works wonders. I plan to sleep under it tonight. The temperature is perfect when out of the wind. Cool enough to let you see your breath. Good sleeping weather.
The cat has gone the way of the wind. Blown off as ashes and dust. The coyotes have returned to their plains. Maybe they'll be back later, maybe not. Mario is being chased by the smoke as he tries to add fuel to the fire. Bibi is wrapped wíthin a blanket near the fire. And I'm listening to the sounds and sights of another fire in the middle of nowhere.
21-December-1992 1:00 PM
We stopped for gas after almost running out. Both cars had gas gauges which read empty. A major concern we have now is running out of money. No money, no gas. No gas, no home. This fill up leaves me with 2l,OOO pesos. (about $7.O0) Mario the bank has more, maybe $150. We'll see what happens.
Sunday, December 20, 1992
20-December-1992, 7:00PM
I had to ask Mario for the time, I was off by almost an hour. Normally my internal clock tells me what time it is. Is this a sign that we have left the civilized world?
We sìt before a raging duraflame log campfire. The logs were Mario's idea to offset the chance that there would not be any driftwood, around. Clever guy. There is soft jazz music playing on the CD player and gentle lapping waves from the bay. We are at Bahia De Los Angles. It's on the east side of baja, along the Sea of Cortez.
We found this spot with luck and indecision. Today we planned to be in Guerero Negro. Just after we passed the turn off to this peaceful habitat, we pulled over to discuss the options available to us. Since it was about 3:OO in the afternoon and GuereRo Negro was about another 1 1/2 to 2 hours away, we would only get there after dark. We'd then stíll have to find a camp. Too much hassle at night. We made it here with plenty of light by which a camp could be set.
Setup was fairly quick. I've setup my tent so many times that it's almost become a thoughtless reaction. Mario and Bibi have the simple life. You see, Mario has built a camping storage container in the back of his pickup. With a shell on top, it makes a perfect bedroom. Throw down a pair of therma-rest pads and a pair of sleeping bags, it's just like home. Well close enough.
Mario cooked dinner tonight. Wonderful stuff, Tortellini and Knorr Veggie soup. Mixed together, this stew like substance is warm and filling. He can cook for me anytime. We cleaned up right after dinner. This was weird because we usually hang about and bullshit for a while. Different place, different style.
The ride here was very strange. There were fields which were covered with cactus. Fields of boulders which made me drool for climbìng. With Bìbi along, Mario wouldn't stop for an afternoon of bouldering, there will be other spots. Both of us have our gear along. One can always hope...
Then there were stretches of road where I became very bored. My eyes were heavy and I thought of sleeping. I don't understand why.
In each town we drove through that had a gas station, we would stop and fill up. Mario kept saying we don't know where the next one will be. I didn't really believe him until we passed several which were closed down. The clincher was the one that ran out of gas while they, were pumping gas into my jeep! I wonder what kind of junk is at the bottom of the tank.
The most amazing part of this leg of the journey has to be the trek through the valley approaching Bahia De Los Angeles. As we climbed over a mountain pass, a valley floor rose up to meet us. It stretched for miles across, the sìght was breath taking. A smooth flat valley floor opening out to rolling hills on the far side. The hills open up to sheer cliff faces and mountains. The hills stretch to the left of the road for a far as the eye can see. A wonderful treat for the optic receptors. On the opposite side, there are small canyons among tall cliffs. I'm certain that the other side of the valley is similar in features.
Driving around the far side of some hills brings us to our first view of the bay. Nestled between the vee of two ridges, the water is deep blue opposing the brown ridges. Driving further shows us more of the bay ítself. Small peeks until the whole is exposed. Once in full, there are brown islands among a blue canvas. Truely inspiring.
The town by the bay is like so many others we've passed through, simple and poor. This one is alittle different, there is supposed to be a paved airstrip so somewhere. But the town has no phones. Go figure. We hope there is a gas station in town that is open for business, Tomorrow will tell.
Mario and Bibi just got baçk from a short walk. I guess it's almost bedtime. Mario has put on Enya, an Irish vocalist. Lullaby music, peaceful and relaxing. Good music by to which to star gaze.
We sìt before a raging duraflame log campfire. The logs were Mario's idea to offset the chance that there would not be any driftwood, around. Clever guy. There is soft jazz music playing on the CD player and gentle lapping waves from the bay. We are at Bahia De Los Angles. It's on the east side of baja, along the Sea of Cortez.
We found this spot with luck and indecision. Today we planned to be in Guerero Negro. Just after we passed the turn off to this peaceful habitat, we pulled over to discuss the options available to us. Since it was about 3:OO in the afternoon and GuereRo Negro was about another 1 1/2 to 2 hours away, we would only get there after dark. We'd then stíll have to find a camp. Too much hassle at night. We made it here with plenty of light by which a camp could be set.
Setup was fairly quick. I've setup my tent so many times that it's almost become a thoughtless reaction. Mario and Bibi have the simple life. You see, Mario has built a camping storage container in the back of his pickup. With a shell on top, it makes a perfect bedroom. Throw down a pair of therma-rest pads and a pair of sleeping bags, it's just like home. Well close enough.
Mario cooked dinner tonight. Wonderful stuff, Tortellini and Knorr Veggie soup. Mixed together, this stew like substance is warm and filling. He can cook for me anytime. We cleaned up right after dinner. This was weird because we usually hang about and bullshit for a while. Different place, different style.
The ride here was very strange. There were fields which were covered with cactus. Fields of boulders which made me drool for climbìng. With Bìbi along, Mario wouldn't stop for an afternoon of bouldering, there will be other spots. Both of us have our gear along. One can always hope...
Then there were stretches of road where I became very bored. My eyes were heavy and I thought of sleeping. I don't understand why.
In each town we drove through that had a gas station, we would stop and fill up. Mario kept saying we don't know where the next one will be. I didn't really believe him until we passed several which were closed down. The clincher was the one that ran out of gas while they, were pumping gas into my jeep! I wonder what kind of junk is at the bottom of the tank.
The most amazing part of this leg of the journey has to be the trek through the valley approaching Bahia De Los Angeles. As we climbed over a mountain pass, a valley floor rose up to meet us. It stretched for miles across, the sìght was breath taking. A smooth flat valley floor opening out to rolling hills on the far side. The hills open up to sheer cliff faces and mountains. The hills stretch to the left of the road for a far as the eye can see. A wonderful treat for the optic receptors. On the opposite side, there are small canyons among tall cliffs. I'm certain that the other side of the valley is similar in features.
Driving around the far side of some hills brings us to our first view of the bay. Nestled between the vee of two ridges, the water is deep blue opposing the brown ridges. Driving further shows us more of the bay ítself. Small peeks until the whole is exposed. Once in full, there are brown islands among a blue canvas. Truely inspiring.
The town by the bay is like so many others we've passed through, simple and poor. This one is alittle different, there is supposed to be a paved airstrip so somewhere. But the town has no phones. Go figure. We hope there is a gas station in town that is open for business, Tomorrow will tell.
Mario and Bibi just got baçk from a short walk. I guess it's almost bedtime. Mario has put on Enya, an Irish vocalist. Lullaby music, peaceful and relaxing. Good music by to which to star gaze.
20-December-1992 early am. maybe 8ish
I've packed everything back into the jeep. The shower this morning was refreshing. I wait now for Mario and Bibi. There are no signs of life from their room. I hope they slept well.
I sit on the wall around the beach watchíng the tide flow out. From this position, the bay is perhaps a half mile wide. There is a man-made breakwater in the center which spans nearly to both shores. It comee to within 50 feet on this side. The other looks about the same. It's a nice place for the sea gulls to wait for their next meal.
I'd guess that the water is deep in the channel formed by the shore and the breakwater. Close to the shores, the water runs rough. Lots of ripples and many small whirlpools. But in the center, just a clear steady stream of water.
There's a guy near me doing some fishing. He cast a line a few moments ago and is now sitting peacefully. He might even catch a fish, for every few seconds, another one splashes the surface with his tail.
There was a note inside the office telling of a record 293 pound sea bass caught recently. I didn't' believe it at first, but the head is sitting like a trophy on top of a nearby post. It sits near the workbench for the workers who prepare the catch of the day. The mouth on this beast is easily 12" across. He made many bellies fill with delights. Of that I have no doubt.
I sit on the wall around the beach watchíng the tide flow out. From this position, the bay is perhaps a half mile wide. There is a man-made breakwater in the center which spans nearly to both shores. It comee to within 50 feet on this side. The other looks about the same. It's a nice place for the sea gulls to wait for their next meal.
I'd guess that the water is deep in the channel formed by the shore and the breakwater. Close to the shores, the water runs rough. Lots of ripples and many small whirlpools. But in the center, just a clear steady stream of water.
There's a guy near me doing some fishing. He cast a line a few moments ago and is now sitting peacefully. He might even catch a fish, for every few seconds, another one splashes the surface with his tail.
There was a note inside the office telling of a record 293 pound sea bass caught recently. I didn't' believe it at first, but the head is sitting like a trophy on top of a nearby post. It sits near the workbench for the workers who prepare the catch of the day. The mouth on this beast is easily 12" across. He made many bellies fill with delights. Of that I have no doubt.
Saturday, December 19, 1992
19-December-1992 about 7:30PM
At last the time is here. We leave today. This trip has been planned for over the last year and a half, if not more. It started as a long weekend, stretched to a week, then 16 days. The final plan is 10 days. The first and maybe second nights wíll be spent in a hotel. Everything else will be camping out. Initially, the party was Mario, Bibi, Diane and myself. A few weeks before the time arrived (actually more like a few months), Diane bowed out for personal reasons. It was decided that Bibi's nephew Danny would be asked to come along.
Norma, Danny's mom, would first have to be asked if he could attend. Danny is only 17, and Norma's a tad bit paranoid. Mario does some sweet-talking and gets permission. The party's back up to four.
The week before the trip was hectic. Last minute items, lots of work to finish at the office, Christmas gifts to obtain... Then mom and Michele called (the woke me up) to find out what I wantd for Chjstmas. They also wanted to tell me that they'll only be sending the package upon my return. I was relieved. That meant that I could do the same! With the exception of those on the trip, everyone else would have to wait. No problem.
I call Danny on Thursday to let him know I'm bringing a cassette player and he should bring tapes. He telle me he's sick and might not be going. Nice. He'll call Mario tomorrow to let him know. I speak with Mario that night and he ínforms me that Bibi's also sick. Great, a party going nowhere: leaving now. We both say that regardless of Bibi and Danny, we're still going.
Mario calls late Friday afternoon, Bibi and Danny are feeling better. Both will be going! Party time! A couple of hours pass and Marioo calls back: Danny has bowed out. No way he's goíng. Too sick.
Well, let's see if we can track down Mike, see if he wants to attend the festivities. I realize it's last minute notice, but it'd be nice if he came along. Leave a couple of messages for him, no retum call. Maybe he finally found his dream babe and is getting
better aquatinted.
I do laundy, pack most everything, go shopping for last minute items and start to do the dishes from last week when Mario and Bibi arrive. Both are tired so I try to hurry the dishes. No such luck. Week old food REALLY wants_ to be scrubbed hard!. No return calls, looks like a party of three.
Getting to the border is a huge task: finish packing, load the jeep, get some breakfast, remember forgotten items at home. Marioo and Bibi forgot to bring towels, I forget some food stuff. The others hit the market while I jump home to snatch the towels.
While there, I try Mike again. I'd at least like to wish hìm a merry Christmas. Gee, he's home. Tells me he tried calling several times last night. Yeah right. No, at least 5 times, but no one answered. Not even the machine. But I was here. Díaled 452-1329. OOPS. Wrong number. Prefix for work, suffix for home. Oh well. Merry Christmas and will talk with you before the new year. Yes, merry Christmas to you. Have a good trip.
Oh, one more thing: Gas! Fill up at the Arco Station and away we go. Down I-15, down I-163, down I-805. What's this? Bibi is next to me yelling at the top of her lungs. I can't hear a blessed thing. Let's pull over. We missed the turn off for the Mex-Insure place, she tells me. Oh. Mario leads. Around in circles we go to get back on the freeway heading north. Wrong exit. Back on the freeway again. Passed the correct exit. Off and turn around heading south again. Get off the right exit. Yeah! Boy do I have to pee. What a relief. Get the insurance and fishing license which is good for the whole year. Ready to go. Before leaving, I want to tie down the baking rack to the roll cage. This thing sways every which way when driving. Much better now.
There was only about a ten minute wait crossing into Mexico. The return side looked like an hour and a half. Through Tijuana, past Rosarito and into Ensanada. We need to exchange dollars for pesos. I now have three hundred eighty six thousand pesos (about $110.) On the road again. Through small town and lush valley's. (This is the rainy season.
Driving over this one mountain takes us into a valley which could only have been called heaven. Running streams, crops reaching for the sky, horses prancing over a meadow, beautiful maple tree stand, basically life at it's best. Here is a place to stay. Nah, too close to civilization. Over another mountain and the valley is past.
Through more towns and into San Vincente where we stop for gas, A simple full service station with smiling attendants. We take a slight break to see where we stand in the day's travels. A little over 3/4 of the way to the first destination: The Old Mill Hotel.
Traveling through another town, there's a small girl in the center of the road flagging people down. I follow Mario slowly. Now it's my turn to go by the girl. There are actually two of them, the one with the flag and another talking to a driver heading the
other direction. As she turns to face me, I know I'm caught. She smiles up at me, blinks huge brown eyes and shows me a donation can for charity. Nailed. I lower me head in defeat, shaking it from side to side. Reaching into my pocket I pull out some change and hand it to her. Gracious is her reply as she turns back the other way. Her partner has flagged down another car.
On to the town of San Quintan. Mario slows down and makes a right turn onto a dirt road. Where is he going?!? Gee, maybe I should read the sign that says Old Mill Hotel, 3 miles to the right, The end of the road reveals a small hotel. It feels nice.
We wander around a little before checking in. Nice, simple place. Check in is easy, Mario made reservations and paid for the rooms ín advance. Nice guy he is.
While waiting for the people in front or us to check in, the left wall proudly displays a letter written by a self-centered, spoiled bitch in 1975. She complains that the rooms are too small, there are no bathrooms in the rooms, there are no lights at night and there was no place to plug in her curling iron. This child has her priorities screwed up. What was meant to be a vey offensive letter is grandly displayed as a testament to the establishment.
The last thing manager tells us berore we go to the rooms is that there are no keys. No Keys to the rooms! Imagine that! I like this place more and more each moment spent here. My room reveals two twin beds, a dresser, closet and bathroom. Perfect. (I guess they added the bathroom sometime after 1975.) Mario and Bibi have one full size bed.
Wandering down to the shore line, we find a nice size bay with fishing and sailing boats waíting. The sun has just begun to slide below the horizon. We sit for a time and watch the sun's colors sparkle across the water.
Looking around where we sit, I see the beach: a 24' by 36' area of sand enclosed wíthin root high walls. (The walls make nice seats for us.) Cute, a beach front hotel. These people have humor.
Time for some margarits! Where's the bar? Follow Marioo, he knows. He seems to always know the way to Margaritavill. Two glaeses of the lime colored liquid later, we're back outside complaining for food stuffs. But we're stopped in our tracks, No
movement, not even a inch. The sunset is just reaching it's final glory. The clouds in the sky are lit up in pink, purple, lavender and other colors which escape my ability to name. Nice show. Good sunset. Eat now.
Oh what to have, There's a large selectíon of almost all sea food, Many with shrimp. Good, we like shrimp. There's one with garlic. Great I love garlic. It's called shrimp wíth wine garlic sauce. No problem.
Soup or salad? The soup of the day is clam and crab. Soup it is. This is delicious. Lots of cherry stone size clams. And two claws from a crab. Next comes the main meal. Bibi ordered a dish of lobster and linguini. Mario got grilled tuna. To put it simply, all three were outrageous! This resturant gets put on the best place list, Dinner is followed by a small piece of cheese cake. Good stuff. The cake melts away in your mouth. Perfect ending to a wonderful meal. I pick up the tab. Mario gets the tip. I'll most likely have to borrow money from him later on. But we'll worry about that when the time arrives.
A quick hop back to the room to drop off the processed food from the past day. Short bowl, my knees come up to my chest. Mexiico must have many small people. I'll manage.
A final walk around down by the harbor shows us the generator. They do have electricity. It's only turned on during certain hours. The harbor is clean and calm. The water reflects the waiting boats in the moon light. Tranquil scene. Tilting your head up shows the night sky. That which always ìmpressed me the most is that the space between the stars is filled with stars.
Norma, Danny's mom, would first have to be asked if he could attend. Danny is only 17, and Norma's a tad bit paranoid. Mario does some sweet-talking and gets permission. The party's back up to four.
The week before the trip was hectic. Last minute items, lots of work to finish at the office, Christmas gifts to obtain... Then mom and Michele called (the woke me up) to find out what I wantd for Chjstmas. They also wanted to tell me that they'll only be sending the package upon my return. I was relieved. That meant that I could do the same! With the exception of those on the trip, everyone else would have to wait. No problem.
I call Danny on Thursday to let him know I'm bringing a cassette player and he should bring tapes. He telle me he's sick and might not be going. Nice. He'll call Mario tomorrow to let him know. I speak with Mario that night and he ínforms me that Bibi's also sick. Great, a party going nowhere: leaving now. We both say that regardless of Bibi and Danny, we're still going.
Mario calls late Friday afternoon, Bibi and Danny are feeling better. Both will be going! Party time! A couple of hours pass and Marioo calls back: Danny has bowed out. No way he's goíng. Too sick.
Well, let's see if we can track down Mike, see if he wants to attend the festivities. I realize it's last minute notice, but it'd be nice if he came along. Leave a couple of messages for him, no retum call. Maybe he finally found his dream babe and is getting
better aquatinted.
I do laundy, pack most everything, go shopping for last minute items and start to do the dishes from last week when Mario and Bibi arrive. Both are tired so I try to hurry the dishes. No such luck. Week old food REALLY wants_ to be scrubbed hard!. No return calls, looks like a party of three.
Getting to the border is a huge task: finish packing, load the jeep, get some breakfast, remember forgotten items at home. Marioo and Bibi forgot to bring towels, I forget some food stuff. The others hit the market while I jump home to snatch the towels.
While there, I try Mike again. I'd at least like to wish hìm a merry Christmas. Gee, he's home. Tells me he tried calling several times last night. Yeah right. No, at least 5 times, but no one answered. Not even the machine. But I was here. Díaled 452-1329. OOPS. Wrong number. Prefix for work, suffix for home. Oh well. Merry Christmas and will talk with you before the new year. Yes, merry Christmas to you. Have a good trip.
Oh, one more thing: Gas! Fill up at the Arco Station and away we go. Down I-15, down I-163, down I-805. What's this? Bibi is next to me yelling at the top of her lungs. I can't hear a blessed thing. Let's pull over. We missed the turn off for the Mex-Insure place, she tells me. Oh. Mario leads. Around in circles we go to get back on the freeway heading north. Wrong exit. Back on the freeway again. Passed the correct exit. Off and turn around heading south again. Get off the right exit. Yeah! Boy do I have to pee. What a relief. Get the insurance and fishing license which is good for the whole year. Ready to go. Before leaving, I want to tie down the baking rack to the roll cage. This thing sways every which way when driving. Much better now.
There was only about a ten minute wait crossing into Mexico. The return side looked like an hour and a half. Through Tijuana, past Rosarito and into Ensanada. We need to exchange dollars for pesos. I now have three hundred eighty six thousand pesos (about $110.) On the road again. Through small town and lush valley's. (This is the rainy season.
Driving over this one mountain takes us into a valley which could only have been called heaven. Running streams, crops reaching for the sky, horses prancing over a meadow, beautiful maple tree stand, basically life at it's best. Here is a place to stay. Nah, too close to civilization. Over another mountain and the valley is past.
Through more towns and into San Vincente where we stop for gas, A simple full service station with smiling attendants. We take a slight break to see where we stand in the day's travels. A little over 3/4 of the way to the first destination: The Old Mill Hotel.
Traveling through another town, there's a small girl in the center of the road flagging people down. I follow Mario slowly. Now it's my turn to go by the girl. There are actually two of them, the one with the flag and another talking to a driver heading the
other direction. As she turns to face me, I know I'm caught. She smiles up at me, blinks huge brown eyes and shows me a donation can for charity. Nailed. I lower me head in defeat, shaking it from side to side. Reaching into my pocket I pull out some change and hand it to her. Gracious is her reply as she turns back the other way. Her partner has flagged down another car.
On to the town of San Quintan. Mario slows down and makes a right turn onto a dirt road. Where is he going?!? Gee, maybe I should read the sign that says Old Mill Hotel, 3 miles to the right, The end of the road reveals a small hotel. It feels nice.
We wander around a little before checking in. Nice, simple place. Check in is easy, Mario made reservations and paid for the rooms ín advance. Nice guy he is.
While waiting for the people in front or us to check in, the left wall proudly displays a letter written by a self-centered, spoiled bitch in 1975. She complains that the rooms are too small, there are no bathrooms in the rooms, there are no lights at night and there was no place to plug in her curling iron. This child has her priorities screwed up. What was meant to be a vey offensive letter is grandly displayed as a testament to the establishment.
The last thing manager tells us berore we go to the rooms is that there are no keys. No Keys to the rooms! Imagine that! I like this place more and more each moment spent here. My room reveals two twin beds, a dresser, closet and bathroom. Perfect. (I guess they added the bathroom sometime after 1975.) Mario and Bibi have one full size bed.
Wandering down to the shore line, we find a nice size bay with fishing and sailing boats waíting. The sun has just begun to slide below the horizon. We sit for a time and watch the sun's colors sparkle across the water.
Looking around where we sit, I see the beach: a 24' by 36' area of sand enclosed wíthin root high walls. (The walls make nice seats for us.) Cute, a beach front hotel. These people have humor.
Time for some margarits! Where's the bar? Follow Marioo, he knows. He seems to always know the way to Margaritavill. Two glaeses of the lime colored liquid later, we're back outside complaining for food stuffs. But we're stopped in our tracks, No
movement, not even a inch. The sunset is just reaching it's final glory. The clouds in the sky are lit up in pink, purple, lavender and other colors which escape my ability to name. Nice show. Good sunset. Eat now.
Oh what to have, There's a large selectíon of almost all sea food, Many with shrimp. Good, we like shrimp. There's one with garlic. Great I love garlic. It's called shrimp wíth wine garlic sauce. No problem.
Soup or salad? The soup of the day is clam and crab. Soup it is. This is delicious. Lots of cherry stone size clams. And two claws from a crab. Next comes the main meal. Bibi ordered a dish of lobster and linguini. Mario got grilled tuna. To put it simply, all three were outrageous! This resturant gets put on the best place list, Dinner is followed by a small piece of cheese cake. Good stuff. The cake melts away in your mouth. Perfect ending to a wonderful meal. I pick up the tab. Mario gets the tip. I'll most likely have to borrow money from him later on. But we'll worry about that when the time arrives.
A quick hop back to the room to drop off the processed food from the past day. Short bowl, my knees come up to my chest. Mexiico must have many small people. I'll manage.
A final walk around down by the harbor shows us the generator. They do have electricity. It's only turned on during certain hours. The harbor is clean and calm. The water reflects the waiting boats in the moon light. Tranquil scene. Tilting your head up shows the night sky. That which always ìmpressed me the most is that the space between the stars is filled with stars.
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